Shoulder length sling climbing reddit trad height. There are lots of wandering routes there.
Shoulder length sling climbing reddit trad height. Racking two cams of the same size on a single biner rather than side by side The quickdraws put some distance between the gear and moving rope thus ensuring the gear doesn't orient upwards, walk into the crack, or otherwise lose its position it was placed in. 5 trad draws (shoulder length slings + 2 snapgates for each) 2-3 double length slings Quadruple length sling or cordelette + 3-4 locking biners for anchors Hexes, small cams, big cams, offset nuts, extra tricams and all of that can come later when he has a better idea of what he wants. Then I would set aside 4-6 shoulder length slings, each with a single non-locker clipped on, and have those slings over my shoulder. I don't usually take them all, but it's pretty common for me to take 4-6 quickdraws, 4-6 alpines, and one double length alpine just in case. He carried a dozen shoulder slings and half a dozen loose biners for those stopper placements. Want to learn more about these and other trad climbing skills? I'd say get dyneema slings from the get go even if it means holding off a little longer. Dyneema slings are also easier to break when there isn't anything that can stretch in the system (eg an anchor of just dyneema slings). Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things I rarely use 12cm draws for trad outside of 'trad protected highballs'. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I climb with my shoulder lengths over one shoulder each with their own biner. Shoulder length slings/runners can be made easily and cheaply with tubular webbing with a water knot. Also, most of the easier routes were put up in the days of 150 ft ropes, and the belays are generally spaced What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. Make sure to properly tighten your slipknots. Consider extending your draws (going full-length if they're alpine, or adding a short sling if they're sport) depending on where you're going and how you expect the rope to drag. 20 votes, 62 comments. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Here’s how you use alpine draws and slings. The rack pack also holds your harness up like a pair of suspenders — especially useful when shoes and water are weighing it down. For multi-pitch trad cordalettes, 7mm cord is pretty standard (17-22ft depending on preference). Cams can be reslung by places like mountain tools, metolius, and black diamond. Depending on the route I may switch some out for double-length slings. But this only works on chill terrain where I can stop and take slings off over my head. Helmet on head, chalkbag tied onto bag, rope over shoulder or someone else carries it. That way, if you need to fully extend a cam, you can just pull the sling off your shoulder, and clip it to the biner thats already on the cam, and clip the rope to the biner that was already on the sling. If it's a trad or mixed climb I'll exclusively carry 60cm slings- 4 as alpine draws and between 6-10 in runner-runner style with 1 biner. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. Left all the biners on because I'd rather keep them together. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? I also use those to make alpine draws with the skinny metolius shoulder length slings. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. 305 votes, 96 comments. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. The way they are racked is by holding them in your hands spread, then fold to the length of about 12" and twisted multiple times and clipped on both ends. how you rack them tends to be personal preference, but I usually keep a couple on my harness as alpine draws and keep the rest slung over a shoulder (most w/ 2 carabiners, some w/ 1) Anchors: You can use cordallete or slings (120cm or 240cm, nylon or dyneema). 3-1", a set of BD stoppers, 6 quickdraws, and 4 shoulder length slings or 4 alpine quickdraws. I'd get some 30cm open slings instead, good draw for in between alpines and 18cm dogbone draws. I started climbing by sport climbing and picked up Petzl spirit draws from the get go. I might use a sling that I personally bought 10 years ago, but I wouldnt use a 10 year old sling from Craigslist. After about 1 year I like carrying 4-6 shoulder-length tied slings with water knots for descent anchors. On here sits all the extra stuff. I usually carry 8 shoulder-length alpine draws tripled up on my harness, 2 shoulder length slings with a single biner each, and two double-shoulder length slings (also with a single biner each), plus ~6-8 regular length draws. Standard slings are 48-inch sewn loops, but individual runners can vary a few inches, to better fit larger- or smaller-chested climbers. Anyways, I am having trouble figuring out how I would make the . I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. When I first started trad climbing, I used a shoulder gear loop but never really liked it. What size slings and how many each do you like having set aside for trad anchors? Or do you prefer cordelette? And why. Probably overkill especially if you're carrying a cordalette and won't need slings at the anchor. it's dangerous. Trad setup varies by how many multiples of sizes I'm bringing. Luckily slings are a relatively cheap part of your climbing kit and you can always add more as time goes on. 5 to #3. The basic beginner trad rack is Black Diamond C4s . It's also the standard alpine draw length. How strong are they? They are often referred to as `Alpine draws', and I know of only one pre-made version (but there may be more): this one. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. The home of Climbing on reddit. Nov 27, 2017 · Coppolillo recommends carrying different-length slings in trad areas, like those at Red Rock near Las Vegas, where the routes can wander. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. Primary Climbing Area: Northeast USA, The Gunks Current Lead Range: up to 5. 4 or . 1. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. I also wouldn't discount starting with a #4 depending on the area. That place with mini length climbs and ground fall potential always present. 4 small lockers So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. Accessory cord is still going to run you like $20 and you'll need to replace it more often. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. I now carry shoulder length slings with single biners over the shoulder instead. I don't mess with alpine draws at all because almost all of my placements are cams and if I extend those placements, I always use a full 60cm sling to do so. If you plan on working easy'ish long pitches (ie. Previous to having this harness, I just squeezed all this stuff behind all the alpines, but it was a pain. I always keep 4 slings on my harness that are racked on two biners. Depending where you expect to climb, you might want doubles of the size cams you have now. If your home turf is like the Rockies with lots of wandering pitches on limestone then mostly shoulder length runners makes sense. I keep single slings with 1 carabiner attached over my shoulder, and additional carabiners stacked on both sides of my harness. If I buy a 20ft length at 7mm would that be enough? I am not doing much trad climbing, mostly sport, and the quad will be used to set up top rope anchors. Climbing slings are strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. I used to use all trad draws when I climbed at the Gunks. I use a nylon daisy to connect to the anchor, and then a clove hitch above my tie-in as a backup. A couple double-length runners, several shoulder-length slings, and a few draws can alleviate issues posed by secondary pulls, he says. Belay device, cordelette, nut tool stay on my harness. If your climbing coastal granite then having a mix of draws and runners makes more sense. My standard draw arsenal is 6 alpine draws, 5 single length and 2 double lengths over my shoulder. Good attitude… depending where you climb at you need to do something different to get good protection. Small cams and nuts front left, big cams front right, quickdraws back left, belay device and anchor gear back right, shoulder length slings with a single biner each over the shoulder. I climb at Josh. May 22, 2003 · Repeat the process on the other side of your body for a double gear sling; in either case, you can add length with supplemental biners. I decided the sling was cheap enough that I won't be bummed if I end up buying the Metolius PAS afterwards. These are my personal recommendations, but your list is also more than enough for most things in Squamish! Have fun! Reply reply mad_bromine • 19 votes, 76 comments. For alpine I'll sometimes take a 6mm one but it is substantially weaker. So while climbing my stuff is well organized and easy to deal with What do you do when you take off all your slings, how do you store them/keep them organized and untangled? It's very common to do this with shoulder length slings (60cm) in trad or alpine climbing, as extending them allows to place protection far on the sides while keeping ropedrag minimal. Helps to reduce the cluster on my harness. 3, . Will deploy these while aerial pruning around my properties, and recreational tree climbing. And yes we are scared of falling. 4, and maybe the . If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Wirenose (or equivalent) if you can. Check the dates on the cam slings. Aug 18, 2019 · The double-length sling, also known as “ shoulder length, ” is far and away the most common length, and makes up the majority of the slings on pretty much every traditional climber's rack we know. 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket (s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. Clipped to opposite and opposed to the rope because why not. A nut tool to remove stuck gear Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint Cams (Black Diamond 0. 8-12 is a good starting point. Taking it slow, learning a lot. So you can use it as a draw, extended draw (good for wandering trad routes), slinging natural features like chicken heads etc or just using the sling to do stuff like extending your rappel device or as a PAS (with an extra locker). Reply reply More replies minus8dB • Yup Reply reply More repliesMore replies The_Real_JS 8-10 shoulder length slings and a few double length slings (nylon or dyneema) cord for building anchors (i have a 25 ft cordelette) ~5-6 locking carabiners for various things 6-8 quickdraws single rack of camalot c4s 0. You can share carabiners between your quickdraws and alpine draws and just swap them out depending on if you're trad climbing and sport climbing. I didn't have any double length slings. What is the ideal sling length? The length of the sling determines what you can use it for when climbing. 18K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. If there are bolted anchors just get a double shoulder length sling and 4 locking biners. Alpine draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. Nice for extending gear. Also, in terms of gear. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. Personally, I wouldn't have used those shoulder length slings on that climb. 6 Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. If you have 10 slings, thats like $35. Dmm dragon 2s. Really depends on the scenario. I now rack most everything on my harness. Most of the Tahquitz routes take a "typical" rack: nuts or hexes or cams to 3" or so, plus a few double length slings for the routes that wander. You can carry fewer runners if you climb on half ropes, which come in handy in the Gunks for protecting your second on the traverses and are nice on some of the long raps. This thread will be posted again every Friday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. If you are trad climbing you will probably need four to six 60s, a few 120s and even a 240 or 480. Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. Therefore when racking my X4s on my harness, I often just rack them on alpine draws. Also, when you choose a beaner for your nuts, make sure you get one that has no notch at the gate because in a pinch placement you will always get it stuck on there in panic mode. I rack my draws on the sling and gear on my harness. A shoulder length girthed around it was too short. Trad climbing with quickdraws is not ideal, but it works if you bring a few alpines as well for strategic extensions. Shoes piled up in a wire basket. 6 slings, 6 alpines, 2 draws, and 2 double length slings = 16 extensions in a single pitch. I currently have all dyneema slings and am planning on buying a few nylon slings for clipping the first piece, building anchors, etc. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Get some cord to make trad anchors with, as your pieces may be spread out at the anchor. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I Steep and cheap. 3-4 equivalent)/ $10 nut tool Mtnoutlet. Trad Climbing Gear > Slings This 'Climbing Slings' article is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. Just curious. This gets you a "minimal single rack". Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. 5-3) Nuts x1 Offset Nuts x1 2 Shoulder length slings 1 Double length sling A few longer slings. 18 votes, 34 comments. com Feb 17, 2016 · I would buy 4-6 shoulder length slings, 2-4 double shoulder length slings, a good amount of extra webbing (for rapping or replacing old webbing at a rap) a set of nuts (#4-13 black diamond, or manufacture of your choice) and perhaps a single set of cams from . Hi all! I'm somewhat new to climbing and just bought a rope and gear to set up anchors. I used to carry both alpine draws and quickdraws on my harness. So you need to know exactly what length fits your requirements. Remember you can also cut some cost by slinging single length slings with biner over your shoulder for cam placements. Sometimes I add 2 extra draws or 2 double length slings depending on the route. 4-3 so little grey to big blue (dmm 0-5 maybe). 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. Check out some double length dynema slings to make a mini quad if anchor hangers aren’t too far apart. Last thing you need is your biners catching on slings and gear as you try to release them. 5 - 2 the most. 8 cams (Bd . When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. Easy access to everything. You need to have the right size ready and racked up front on your harness. I like having a bunch of shoulder length slings with me, and some double shoulder length slings in case I need to sling a chockstone/horn, or need to deviate from my original route to reach pro. My double lengths go around my shoulder and clip into itself. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). The slings for alpines are fairly cheap on their own. 37 votes, 63 comments. I extend my cam placements with 60cm slings racked over-the-shoulder with a single carabiner clipped in. For my smaller cams (Black Diamond X4s) I always extend with at least a quickdraw, and frequently with a full shoulder-length sling. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great If trad cragging cams, nuts, etc and gear sling just jammed into bottom as densely as possible, then harness, shoes. Get 4-8 shoulder-length runners AKA trad draws and a couple 4 footers. Climb at a place with long thin low angle cracks -small thin cams and stoppers ( I rack 3-5 on one biner- without a gate Sometimes I carry some single-length slings over my shoulder with a single biner for extending cams, and then I use the racking biner (or a loose snapgate for stoppers). Hope this helps! What kind of slings you need (and how many) depends somewhat on where you're climbing. Mar 13, 2024 · Single-length slings should be the mainstay of your sling collection. Edit to say: I Also would include at least one double length sling and a few shoulder length slings. What advice would you give a new trad climber? A genuine nugget of wisdom. Learn how to build your first trad rack with Chockstone Climbing Guides. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. As mentioned already - flip the stacked rope from you to her. Honestly they are just a joy to clip and when I got into trad I just picked up some dyneema shoulder length slings and switched some of the biners off my sport draws onto them and made alpine draws. More if the route wanders. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally Hey dudes, I was about to buy some new double shoulder length runners (48 in/ 120 cm), but realized I had some accessory cord (6mm monster cord from… I rack all my shoulder length slings with a single carabiner, I then have 2-4 loose wire gate carabiners on the back of my harness so I can add them to one of my slings if I’m placing a nut My trad sling stash consists of 6 floppy, thin quickdraws, 8 single length alpines, and 2 double length alpines. 5mm. So, I clipped another trad draw to it. Is longer better, more versatile? What lengths and how many slings do you carry on your saddle? Starter rack is complete! Any tips for a new trad climber? Would love to hear all sorts of experiences and advice! That’s why every complete set of climbing equipment includes a wide variety of slings in various lengths and materials. 5-3 in. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more Unpopular opinion: If you're doing moderate trad as I do, and you don't do a lot of hanging belays, you can probably do really good on a black diamond BOD harness, maybe a shoulder sling, and a nice backpack. Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. Personally I use C4 0. Sure it may take just a bit longer to hand off gear when swinging leads, but carrying everything on a sling around your neck does not help your climbing. Now, I climb in the west and prefer 6 long draws and 6 over the shoulder slings with a single biner each. With a bunch of Moses, slings, and cams, you can rock climb hard. Cinch down the knot portion (bottom/left end in my video) and take up all the slack by pulling on the From my experience, that gear sling will be the first thing to go. I keep my cordelette and lockers on my gear loop a lot of the time. I planned on buying a Metolius PAS, however the store was out of stock, and the employee told me that a double shoulder length sling works just as well. I wish I could have a Sewn shoulder length slings can be had for $3. Sierra granite eats them up. I usually carry 12 shoulder length (2ft), 2 double length (4ft) runners, and a cordelette when I climb there. Also, have her clean the gear onto a shoulder-length sling - that way all she has to do is hand you the sling, and you have all your gear back. Once harnesses came equipped with gear loops most people never went back. I also love 120cm alpine draws which I rack at 1/5th length so they extend as easily as a 60cm alpine, however they aren't very common. A lot less material and weighs nothing. Upvote for extendable slings on the draws - I forgot to put that in my comment. Basically, you want all flop, no tension when the rope goes through. For trad climbing many places consider a “standard rack” something like cams bd sizes 0. They’re sized to fit neatly over one shoulder and give approximately 24 inches of extension when clipped with a biner on each end. Once you hit E3/E4, add a few smaller cams, a few extra nuts in the small sizes (I like to carry nuts 1-5ish doubled because your offsets double the larger sizes). You got it! Single length, shoulder length, and 60cm all refer to the same size. Available in three lengths and with color coded slings; these long draws are made up of two Bravo carabiners joined by an 11 mm Monster Sling. Typically sling lengths can measure between 60 to 180 cm. They're available in a range of lengths – your typical trad rack will have 60cm, 120cm and maybe a 240cm length sling on it, but bigger and smaller ones are also available. Clip the sling to the two bolts, then pull the center down to equalize, then do an overhand or 8 on a bight to create a master point. If you want to be cheap, you can inspect your sport draw biners and see if they're alright to use for the alpine draws. When I learned to make alpine draws, I generally carry 4 alpine draws and 8 shoulder slings. If there are bolted anchors, I’ll usually use a shoulder length sling with a girth or clove hitch mp Reply reply GoSox2525 • They're super versatile since they're essentially just a shoulder length sling and two non-locking biners. 50 each and you can sometimes find the old BD Nylon ones cheaper than that and you only need to replace them every few years. They are designed to be carried on your harness gear loops just like a normal quickdraw, which gives you quick and easy access to shoulder length slings. Reply [deleted] • Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. If your crag has a lot of meandering, zigzagging lines, you'll need more slings (and biners/crabs too) in order to prevent rope drag. This works for bolted anchors, but how would you make an equalized gear anchor with shoulder length slings? I imagine having one long cordelette makes equalization much easier Cams, TriCams & stoppers on carabiners clipped to a shoulder gear sling hanging from a hook in a rafter. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Slings are important to help negate rope drag and gear security. Sep 25, 2020 · Depending on your setup you may only need one 120 sling. Jan 31, 2023 · Various lengths, from shoulder-length to quad-length, and different materials like Dyneema slings or Nylon slings are ideal for building anchors in different scenarios. I bought nylon slings which last forever and I'm at a point where I'd like the convenience of skinny slings but can't justify getting rid of like a dozen nylon shoulder length slings. To contribute an alternative, I often climb with a few shoulder length slings, as well as a few shorties (think quickdraw length) each with their own biner. Check out our recommendations for essential gear you need to start trad climbing. Cams and tri cams work well in pockets. Black Diamond is the gold standard for cams. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. Yep what this guy said also you can just throw a sling over your shoulder for anything you want to attach higher up, pretty common when trad and aid climbing 10-15x 60cm ('shoulder-length') slings. 5 X-4s. Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried. It’s important to extend trad gear to reduce rope drag and prevent the rope from tugging gear out of place. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. I always keep a few slings over my shoulder that aren't first up while I'm on technical sections. Half length together and full lengths together. Edit: There is also the Mammut Moses Express If you're making your own, it might be an idea to buy a few of your favourite `normal' draws, and replace the dogbones. 40m+), shoulder/body slings are the shizzle. By far the biggest way to drop weight without sacrificing safety is to place (and therefore carry) more stoppers. 3 Lockers and a belay plate. This is my preferred method. Check for burrs or any other aspects that could damage a sling before making an alpine draw with them. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Bag is 25-30L-ish sewed by yours truely. com $50 10 shoulder length slings $20 2 double length slings Gear express $150 30 nonlockers $26. Generally, quickdraws are cheaper than two separate biners (if you can even get them, seperate non-locking Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Get new slings on those BD cams (they are likely close to 20 years old) and check the heads for cracks where the cables enter. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. (eventually double up on this size range when you get the cash) extend size of cams in both directions depending on the type of climbs you're doing (generally the harder I have about 8-9 shoulder length slings with wire gates as quickdraws, I haven't used a normal quickdraw outside of sport climbing for years. / $30 wild country rocks 1-8/ $53 dmm offsets/ $464. Sell the blue off-brand hexes to a collector. You probably want to use a double-length sling and a quickdraw, or two shoulder-lengths, at least. I however started with exactly the cams you have (or maybe first with hexes I don’t remember) and a single rack of nuts. For multi pitch, my partner and I generally carry one 240cm sling, one tech cordalette, and a 120cm each. Clip the other two biners around the lower section (should be 4 strands) then rope goes into those biners. You won't need any super-tiny wires on the easier routes, because they were all put up before they existed. See full list on rei. Sport draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. There are lots of wandering routes there. ubwhtud qscpg enhavjp gcrku fjxfom nvj emf kxm xaucj bemvp