Half crimp vs full crimp reddit. It isn't dangerous if trained regularly.

Half crimp vs full crimp reddit. I personally do half crimp but I do open hand on any pocket-y type holds. But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. I'm very strong open-handed (bodyweight one-arm), but I get weaker and weaker as the attack angle of my fingers goes up. On the bottom photo I'm forcing my index finger to 90 but my ring and middle feel like they're going into an hyper extended PIP position and closer to a full crimp. I'm using a tension block and everytime i'm training my half crimp my pinky just wants to straighten out. On the right is a "full crimp", using the thumb to lock the fingers in place. I've almost completely switched to full open hand crimping (120+ degrees) and haven't been injured since. There is much more in common between the half crimp and full crimp. The half crimp and full crimp allow for a different variety of force application, and should be trained with that in mind. I think of full crimp as PIP still around 90-100 degrees like half crimp, but greater DIP hyperextension and and MCP more flexed. Would be nice to match my current full crimp strength aka 5 sec hand on toms latice or 11 sec on BM currently at 10kilos asistance for half and 20 for open. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. See full list on gripped. Most people train half or open crimp on edges because research shows that isometric strength training translates to other lengths of contraction within 30? degrees of the trained joint angle. If you watch Paul Robinson climb you'll see he often latches holes in a chisel grip (efficient and strong to hang on) and then readjusts to a half, or much more often full crimp, to then pull so he can still push down on the hold as he gets above it. I have trouble hanging body weight with closed crimp on 10mm, but can do 8mm + 20% BW on an 8mm with a half crimp. Reply reply More repliesMore replies EatThaatKetchup • I'm always training half-crimp and climb mostly half-crimp with some full-crimp too. I crimp most of the time and haven’t been injured yet. Full crimp is useful for limit projects but full crimping everything is probably going to put you at a bigger risk of injury. Is this a better half crimp and I just need to train it? A half crimp also doesn't use the thumb, so it seems to be best to compare to. Sep 27, 2024 · With full crimping, your thumb locks a half-crimp into place and doesn’t allow it to fail. Comparison of half crimp type, large (towards open hand) or small (towards full crimp) Three hold types are typically discussed in the literature: the open hand (slope), the half crimp (fingers at 90 degrees at the second joint), or full crimp (with thumb lock off). Closed Crimp: +44 lbs (31% BW). For instance, if someone had weak "half crimp" it would be better to just add a few crimp climbs to their progression rather than go straight to hangboard because of the factors mentioned above. On BM2000 14mm I can only pull 5% BW half crimp, but 45% BW chisel, 30% BW 3-finger drag. Here are my numbers: Open hand: +53lbs (38% BW). So, everyone knows you should do your max hang training with a half crimp position of the fingers. Damit wir im Folgenden aber Klarheit gegenüber den Techniken schaffen, findest du hier die offizielle Definition. I don’t train the full crimp just for injury prevention, but the other two are important to train. So you have one person practicing the full hand crimp too often and getting injured, and another person who is mistakenly identifying their closed hand crimp as full and doing fine. Kind of a strange thing that doesn't quite make sense, wanted to see if any others have experienced the same thing. Constantly comparing my form to others only helps to a certain degree. Full is like deep crimp and wrapped thumb, usually. May 30, 2007 · The half-crimp will build strength for open-handing and full-crimping (to a limited degree) whereas the other grips are exclusive to themselves. Will this lead to injury, should i not be half-crimping then? This only happens on edges that are 10mm or less. The full crimp has some strength advantages due to the angles of the finger but that does not mean you have weak muscles overall, just maybe weak muscles for open handed positions. I suck on biter crimps, like a lot of Moon Board yellows or these crimps on Fingerslut (Matt Fultz video), where it's like your fingers are actively going over, behind, and down into the lip of the crimp. It's just about finding what works best for you specifically. I came down, rested a few minutes, then tried a v2 overhang to assess the damage, and confirmed it was injured. Learn identification techniques and key differences. Whenever I try hangboarding half crimp my pinky finger eventually gives up and turns it into open hand. Just as an aside, I hardly ever use a full closed crimp and I am significantly weaker with it compared to open hand/half crimp. You need to specify a grip type to really figure out what is going on: grip strength between different grips (open crimp, half crimp, full crimp, 3 finger drag etc) can vary drastically. He describes your positions as: open hand half crimp crimp full crimp He also has drag which is even more passive than your open hand position (ie really relying on friction!) Hang data for 20mm ~7-10 sec: -my fuller "half crimp": ~45lbs -3 finger drag: ~25lbs -"true" half crimp: less than 20 lbs I recently started training 3 finger drag after I noticed it was significantly weaker. Aim to position your fingers on the hold so that the weight is distributed through the pads of your fingers and not the tips. I probably need to train that more but I full crimp all the time. I have literally never trained a full crimp on a hangboard, I exclusively train half crimp, and my full crimp strength has improved drastically from doing so. Just recently started training closed crimps. which describes using the thumb over the index in a full crimp position. ) Sprinting engages a very specific set of muscle fibers that will remain completely untrained by slower state running. This means training a half crimp also trains full and open because they are within that 30 degrees. I am a professional musician and Feb 2, 2025 · Since the half crimp grip is more difficult, half crimp training will help develop the muscles and tendons in your fingers and wrists. I haven't noticed any problems because of it. Pinches are blockier, and very in sizes and shapes. It allows you to: pull harder on smaller holds, pull your hips into the wall, bend your wrist so you can move past your hand, and sometimes is just simply the most comfortable way to grab a hold (especially outside). Anyone who has switched from 20mm to 10mm or even less, around what %bw on 20mm do you think is good to switch at? Both the half crimp and full crimp feel quite natural to me, especially when on real rock. I think this is impossible unless you have very long pinky. Background: I used to subconsciously full crimp all the time, which was not great for my fingers; it caused them to be inflamed and very stiff (synovitis). As many have said, if a beginner even had more work capacity it's better to spend that work capacity on more climbing as opposed to hangboard or no hangs. I wonder what the force on the A2 would be using half crimp VS full crimp. Hi there, I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. Through all these periods, I have maintained full strength in the open hand positions, and have just continued to climb in these positions while rehabbing my injury. Full Crimp Jede dieser Griffvarianten fühlt sich anders an und im Eifer des Gefechtes benutzen Boulderer:innen die Begriffe oftmals etwas salopp. . All testing was done on a Tension 20mm edge for 10 seconds, with 5+ minutes of rest between hangs. Do this at 3 different horizontal angles (hopefully this makes sense). I am using the beastmaker 1000 bottom crimp appx 15-16mm according to a different thread on reddit. Crimp holds are divided into three different types: full crimp, half crimp, and open hand. Half Crimp: Body Weight. At the same time if I ever had to full crimp it would A) feel weak and B) feel super dodgy. Like you said about the open hand, its easy if the hold is above you and your wrist is pulling down comfortably. Given how variable holds, wall angles, and body postions on climbs can be, choosing the correct way to grip Not to mention that you cannot make use of a crimp with a thumb-catch while open-handing the crimp unless the thumb-catch is in the right spot. Is this a problem with my pinky strength relative to my front three fingers or is it just a common thing for it not to feel natural? Maybe both? I have only ever used half crimp (ie dont lock thumb over fingers), in blind ignorance to the fact that full crimp even existed as a beginner. Full Crimp, half crimp, 3 finger drag, open crimp, etc. Not surprising, half or full crimping allows for better utilization of the hold when it comes to moving around that hold. In my right dominant hand on tiny holds going into a full crimp feels like my strongest grip. I noticed while doing weighted hangs on beastmaker 20mm that I naturally rotate my wrists outward so that my fingers aren't perpendicular to the hold but at a slight angle. May 10, 2022 · Sometimes on very small micro-edges, a full-crimp may provide better traction or on larger edges an open/drag grip may provide a more restful alternative, but generally speaking, the half crimp is the way to go. Due to the higher forces put through the joints and pulleys it should be trained via climbing, instead of on a fingerboard – unless you are very experienced, with a suitable training history. Anyone else have this experience? Unusual Half Crimp I use a weird grip when trying to half crimp. It does transfer to decently well but I think it depends on your finger lengths relative to one another too. The difference in length of my index and middle create a difficult situation where open hand drags force my middle finger to a half crimp, and if I half crimp, the middle going into full. On some climbs it will likely be necessary to half crimp to keep yourself on the wall, so getting comfortable with half crimping is a good idea. It's hard to work around these grips open-handed because you end up I'm talking 90° vs. This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. Sometimes the thumb, but not always. Sep 11, 2023 · Open Hand vs. But I never thought to take the same approach with three-finger drag or a more openhanded grip. Climbers don’t simply get injured from full crimping; they get injured because they aren’t listening to their bodies. Chisel is where you crimp your longer fingers but leave your shorter fingers open handed. Closed Crimp vs. Higher risk than drag positions. 110° flexion in "half crimp" — that's pretty significant and readily identifiable on video. I've realized that I more or less never use 3FD in actual climbing, though I have begun training it on the hangboard in addition to half-crimp. The open hand or 3 finger drag, half crimp, and full crimp. I also have short pinkies, but when watching back some of my climbing videos about 50% of my full crimps have flexed pinkies. Have climbed 5. Id Apr 5, 2018 · training the full crimp and half crimp is fine. If you choose to train the full crimp on a hangboard, you should start with your feet on the floor and slowly put more load on your fingers (over several weeks) until a full hang is possible. I'm wondering, what is the weight differential between your half crimp and your 3-finger drag? I could hang 30+ kg on an 14 mm edge in the open hand position (4 fingers open). Important Tip: Crimp holds primarily engage the fingertips, so proper finger placement is crucial. To your question, I spent several months training half-crimp, drag, and open-crimp full-crimp (in that order). In other words, the half-crimp is virtually a one-stop shop for grip training. How to Climb Safely with Half crimp and Full crimp Climbing Grips It is critical to know how to be safe when using grip techniques, whether you are a first-time climber or have completed several climbs. This was more apparent in full crimp than half crimp, which is why I avoided full crimp for so long. Is it bad that I am not half crimping as suggested? My middle finger is longer too so depending on the hold, my middle finger could be almost half crimping it and my ring and index finger are open crimping it. It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. 12c/V7-. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. The bottom line is those unable to hang BW 20mm in a half crimp need to really, really intentionally feel out their own half crimp form while climbing, and then further train with no-hangs and on bigger edges. Yes the first joint is bent more, but if you look at the angle of your knuckles instead, that seems to be a better indicator of half crimp vs full crimp for me. They both focus on putting all your force on your fingertips while bringing the palm of your hand closer to the wall for even more strength. The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very well to pockets. As discussed in chapter 4, full crimping is mechanically stronger than open-handing or half crimping when on small holds. As a result I would only full crimp if I really had to and otherwise try to pinch a lot of stuff or just open hand it. Oct 29, 2020 · The reality is, the full crimp &/or closed crimp is a valuable part of a climbers toolbox. It's an aggressive half crimp. Your thumb can wrap over your pointer finger at times, which is called a "full crimp". My pinky is probably a full pad shorter than my ring finger, and it just doesn't feel quite right fingerboarding with all four finger bent. If you can't deadhang in a half crimp without having your hand open up then take weight off with a pulley so you can stay in the position and train it. Full Crimp: 2nd knuckle of the finger joint above the finger pad. I know that lots of threads come up on this subreddit (and google) about this topic but they seem to contradict themselves so I decided to ask the question here to clear this up once and for all. After a few months of rehab and using different grips, my fingers now feel healthier and stronger than ever. From what I understand from the training blogs, articles, podcasts, etc. Every crimping position has its application. Just you do you climber unless you run out of options. 4 finger open crimp. Stopped climbing and started reading up, which led me to assume it is an A2 pulley tear, since that's most common. I'd say adequate warm up has more of an impact on likelihood of injury than open 3 vs half crimp These injuries have always only affected my full crimp (which i hardly ever do because I am scared of it) and half crimp positions. Question: What are the pros/cons of training a "true" half crimp? Safer? Stronger? Or is it just variances in anatomy that don't matter significantly stronger in open crimp vs half crimp, better to focus on half crimp? started max weight hangs, my open crimp on 20mm is body weight + 50% for close to 8 sec, but half crimp i can only hang with +20% ish. I also started bouldering about 2 years ago after 30 and I full crimp all the time. Half crimp is all fingers crimped. What I've noticed in nearly all cases is that most people have hyperextended dip joints in full crimp and tend to put their thumb on top of index/middle fingers, but my full crimp looks pretty similar to my half, but I put my thumb on the side of my index for stability more than anything and don't hyperextend the dip joints. Slopers are rounder, usually larger holds that are palmed and squeezed with all the fingers. For me, training (off the ground lifts) full crimps with a flexed pinky has helped my performance immensely. I am now only hangboarding half crimp and highly recommend, up to +38kg on 20mm and have seen it noticeably translate to the wall. A full crimp whould definitly be stronger. If you'd keep your wrist straight while crimping, it experiences a small bending moment which you need to resist. Id say my grip is almost purely open hand or half crimp, most common a sort of 80% half crimp where index a a little shy of 90° and my ring and middle are about or slightly over Given the huge discrepancy between my half-crimp and closed crimp, what is a suitable (and safe) way to train the closed crimp? For reference, I also have a super short pinky, so adding the thumb would put extra strain on my wrists, as I have to torque my wrist CW to compensate. After Not being strong on half crimp or full crimp meant that any crimpy overhanging climbs were out of my league (ie most harder grade stuff!). Are you guys always talking about half crimp or open/chisel grip as well? Huge difference for me. Not full-crimping but definitely more crimped than on a 20mm, where I notice sometimes I'm kinda between a half crimp and "chisel crimp". You see the tips of his fingers are over-extended this is where you damage things. And when I put my thumb over my index finger I feel like I'm going to break it. An open/half crimp has your fingers engaged on the hold, but not the thumb. Depelop my open handed/half crimp strength. I'd recommend trying out putting your ring finger at a half crimp angle and essentially crimping it (in isolation) against your other palm, the steering wheel of your car, your work desk, or whatever you can find throughout the day to give the joint a little stimulus. I recently noticed my open-3 drag is much weaker than my half crimpabout 45 lbs weaker. My problem comes from many years of injuries, where I have used the open hand position for safety. But note that I worry more about my fingers than my wrist. Crimp grip gives you a mechanical advantage for force application - it's easier to keep your fingers closed, and therefore gripping a hold, while in crimp grip. Here's something to visualize, Daniel Woods climbing "The Process" V16: Consider the times when Woods might full-crimp, open-hand or half-crimp and contemplate for yourselves why each position is used. I have the complete opposite experience as you. Right now I'm training my half crimp and full crimp by low intensity In Ned Feehally's beastmaking book. I think the best way to get better at half crimp is probably a combination of training it in the hangboard and consciously forcing yourself to half crimp holds. I'm thinking this might be beneficial, my index definitely is a weak link in half crimps. I'm confused on when to use these different styles and why there are different ones? I feel like if I hang on a 20mm edge I can only do the full crimp on my front knuckles, and a half crimp isn't even possible? Any info would be great,or diagrams/vids that more explainable, thanks. I'm gonna train up this grip, hopefully it will improve my climbing. I mostly use open drag to latch hold that are far away and pull it into half or full crimp depending on the hold. Thank you guys and gals. I recently did my test day and noticed my fingers were holding in open crimp vs the suggested half crimp I've read online. My default grip on the wall is usually a mixture of open crimp (4 fingers on with 3/4 hyperextended), and half-crimp (all 4 hyperextended). I've climbed a maximum of a couple v10s, typically though I'm in the v8-9 range, and I always considered half-crimp strength one of my strengths, mainly going off lattice benchmarks and subjectively on crimpy climbs. But since every grip i trained normally doesn’t use a flexed pinky (half crimp, open, 3 finger drag) it seemed worthwhile to train it. does the open crimp not translate well to half crimp? and which one is more important? Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. Hi all, I'm wondering whether it's better to use a thumb wrap (or thumb on the side of the index finger) vs curling the thumb into the palm when training full crimp while hangboarding. now I have realized that developing half crimp For (full) crimp, the wrist is in an angle if you hang straight under your fingertips. Feb 9, 2020 · Description: In this video, we are going to discuss if crimping is safe, we are going to break down the crimp position, and we will discuss proper training and management of crimping. Full crimping and more aggressive angles in DIP/PIP joints puts a bit more pressure on the pulleys compared to open hand or strick half crimp. My strongest grip is half crimp (bw + 40% at 20mm edge for 7 secs), and I'm currently trying to improve my 3 finger drag. I never really thought much of this and hung with what I initially thought was a half crimp, with the Jan 31, 2022 · Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than half crimping. The correlations with route grades were similar. Understanding your anatomy is half the battle. Full crimp: Good for small edges. I basically have the same problem as you, and yes I have found that putting in a solid cycle (6-8 weeks) of BW repeaters (10 s on/5 s offx6 3 min rest x4) focusing on maintaining proper half crimp form is an excellent way to work into max hangs. I find now years later, that my open hand strength is superior to that of people who have climbed much longer than I, and it really helps on slopers or on small holds where sometimes a full crimp isnt possible due to hold type or body position. I do try to train open hand, but on projects crimping is a necessity. Definitely not a closed crimp. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. However, in my left hand the full crimp actually feels weaker than keeping it half crimp or open We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. hang 4mm full crimp but I can hang 6 mm half crimp for 3 seconds or so and I like pinches etc. I cant e g. On the other hand, the latter feels easier and is how I There are some common viewpoints that grip strength achieved within the half crimp position is more transferable to both the open crimp and the full crimp positions due to the isometric nature of fingertraining and the joint angle specificity which follows isometric training. Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 From my own experience, half crimp and full crimp strength does not fully translate; what made the full crimp feel very comfortable for me was getting comfy hanging on 8mm with full crimp and climbing on techy granite stuff with tiny holds where you have to full crimp. I start with a more aggressive crimp and let the load on the finger open my crimp to about 90 degrees for hangs and consider that a half crimp. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. 4 finger half crimp. Half Crimp vs. To reduce the risk of injury, you need to start with loads that are lighter than you’d use for training your half crimp. Half/full crimping is generally a lot more helpful when moving off a hold and/or locking off because it allows for a more secure grip on the hold but any move made with a half crimp can be made with an open hand crimp too. You might be in a "weaker" grip type when using 4 fingers, switching to a relatively stronger grip type when using 3. Then I started doing half crimp hangboarding. It isn't dangerous if trained regularly. biased past half, or a few steps down the road to full crimp. Idk why but if it's a small hold I have no chance moving off of it with a half crimp or drag. It's possible in theory to half crimp any hold you can full crimp on, your DIP will still be hyperextended but you could maintain a 90 degree angle at the PIP, but this usually feels less secure for most people than using a full crimp. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. Nov 9, 2022 · Front 3 half crimp: Good for big moves (pinkie doesn’t catch) and smaller width edges. I did some finger strength benchmarking to compare against in the future and found a large gap in my half crimp strength. I have injured my PIP joint as well as tendons doing your "active" half crimp with the 90 degree bend at the PIP joint. Using a thumb wrap should also provide more strength and in general give a more secure feeling. The really subtle proprioceptive stuff probably does matter a little for some climbers, but obviously less so. Camp 1: -Half crimp = hyperextension of DIP (B in picture linked below) -Full crimp = half crimp as described above + thumb lock over index finger (C in picture linked below) Oct 15, 2021 · Half Crimp vs. I have climbing partners with larger hands who seem almost afraid to crimp, going back and forth through deciding "not use it". Climbers seem to fall into 2 camps with regard to definitions of half vs full crimp. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. When hangboarding and half-crimping sometimes my index finger pops into the open hand position but it is the only finger to do so. I weighr 150lbs and the max weight I tested was 75lbs on that hold. (Having the sensation that you're slipping on holds can really mess with your ability to pull. I was in a full crimp position and was winding up for a jump when it popped. Open hand and crimp are strong for two different reasons - one is force application, and the other is "systems support". Jul 13, 2021 · There are two main types of crimping in rock climbing: the full-crimp grip and half-crimp. com May 29, 2014 · In training, initiating long campus moves as well as single arm hangs are usually done with half crimp. Both involve gripping with your fingertips and locking your finger joints. Full Crimp: What’s the Difference? The half crimp position and full crimp position are nearly identical with one key difference. This position gives my pinkie more access to the hold and puts less force on my index and middle finger. One downside is that a lot of energy is wasted cranking to a full crimp every time I hit a small hold. Half crimping for me seems to get my half crimp better, but oddly I have not seen it transfer to full crimp. Some choices, from most open to most closed, would be: 3 finger drag. Also, since the FDS and FDP tendons have different insertion points along the fingers the half crimp position more Aug 25, 2019 · Ever since about 2-3 years into climbing, the back side of my middle fingers (on both hands) would get aggravated fairly easily when crimping. I think half crimp seems to require the most actual strength (whereas open handed relies heavily on skin friction and connective tissue strength), and so I think if you're training strength half-crimp gets you the most bang for your buck. I am going to speak in anatomical terms to avoid confusion. training half crimps is effective at targeting the muscles used for open hand as well as full crimp positions with one exercise. I'm wondering whether this is a correct half position and it's a case of the length of my index finger. Yeah, full crimp=hyper extension at DIP, half crimp=extension at DIP (straight), open crimp=flexion at DIP. Half crimp will improve your full crimp strength. PIP is almost always flexed to some degree. I always knew my open hand was the strongest and my half crimp was A full crimp is mor dangerous for your tendons and fingers but is stronger in some ways, but it does not get you stronger with open and half crimps. Oct 4, 2017 · What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. So what's the big problem? Early climbing research has shown that the full crimp Mar 16, 2005 · The main lesson was that Haydn is weaker than he should be at half crimping and dragging hence: haydn jones said: 4. Jun 15, 2025 · Explore the benefits and applications of half crimp vs full crimp in textiles. 4 finger full crimp To comment on them and share my thoughts: The most open grip type but excludes the pinky. With the former, the first digits of fingers are more or less in line with my palm and I feel like I need more tendon/finger strength to hold the position. First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. It's worth noting that my full crimp doesn't seem all that different really from the reference photos. Think about trying to lock off on a crimp down below your armpit from a drag grip, you can't produce the needed leverage. rgqrs neulk iqmz yyqzsm tumzj bmz stzkc bvse vvyqse ftxpjl