French prusik vs autoblock. So, to be clear, by "friction knot" I mean: French Prusik (autoblock), Bachman Knot, Heddon Knot, Klemheist knot, FB-sling friction knot, Prusik knot, etc. Apr 2, 2025 · We talk about three different ways to tie a prusik hitch around a rope: the French prusik (or Machard or autoblock), the Schwabisch hitch, and the standard p 3,060 likes, 38 comments - davejsearle on April 2, 2025: "3 Ways to tie a friction hitch: Autoblock, Schwabisch, and Standard Prusik. - RWK9XT from Alamy's library of millions of high resolution stock photos, illustrations and vectors. If the rappeller accidentally lets go of the brake line, the autoblock will automatically grip the rope and halt the descent. (I'm very new to saddle hunting. The french prusik – Since the autoblock cord is under friction regularly check it for wear and tear. Feb 26, 2018 · The nomenclature for rope grab hitches can be confusing. Uses Apr 29, 2023 · Origine de l'Autoblock Le Français grimpeur Serge Machard (1) a inventé le nœud autobloquant en 1961. Feels much safer. The creation of this Competencies Checklist was accomplished through a joint venture between Canyon Guides International (CGI) and Canyons & Crags, both members of Canyoneering Karma, a cooperative network of instructors, canyon guides, guide services, gear manufacturers and others who are dedicated to promoting safety and self-reliance in canyoneering. Final (inside) tail threaded through first (outside) tail and clipped to load. Other names Autoblock knot, French Prusik knot Tying 1. Is there a correct placement The autoblock knot (also known as the Machard knot or French prusik knot, but that confuses it with the klemheist knot) slips more easily when accidentally touched even when loaded, and is intended to add more friction to a descender, not to be trusted for prusiking. If the rappeller accidentally lets go of the brake line, the autoblock will cinch around the brake line and halt the rappeller's fall. The former is less likely to slip but more likely to jam. An autoblock is a variation of the klemheist that will also slide when lightly loaded. 7/5 15,092 reviews Apr 2, 2025 · Video Dave Searle Reels11h 3 Ways to Tie a Prusik Hitch: Autoblock, Schwabisch, and Standard Prusik. It's gripping ability comes from the unique hollow-braid construction, for use as a prusik or Klemheist knot on ropes 7 mm or larger. The Classic Prusik Knot is primarily used for ascending ropes, although it can also be used for descending. 2. 8 mm HollowBlock2 is made of 100% Technora® fiber for increased abrasion resistance and improved durability. Can the Autoblock Knot be used in rescue? Yes, it’s effective for backup in high-angle rope rescue systems. The 2x8 is very small. Also, for a third hand/rappel backup the French Prusik/Autoblock, Klemheist and FB knot are all better options (IMO) and can all be tied with either webbing or cord. Autoblock French prusik Pullover Hoodie $3199 FREE delivery Fri, Aug 30 on $35 of items shipped by Amazon See options Jun 16, 2025 · 361 likes, 8 comments - rise_and_summit on June 16, 2025: "French Prusik | Autoblock The French Prusik is a type of prusik knot used primarily as a backup for abseiling or as a clutch in hauling systems. Why choose the Autoblock Knot over a Klemheist Hitch? Cons: More complex to tie and adjust than the Prusik Knot. Highly recommend this video as a resource for rappel extension as extending the rappel makes everything soooo much easier. An autoblock (French Prusik) works better for this application. When it cinches, the autoblock knot stops you from rappelling if you let go of the rappel ropes. Most commonly, friction hitches function as a rope grab that you combine with a progress capture (which can also be a friction hitch) to create a hauling system. Prusik Loop A cord knot that clamps onto a thicker rope under load. May 8, 2018 · Autoblock Knot The autoblock knot, also called a French Prusik knot, is an easy-to-tie and versatile friction knot that is used as a safety back-up knot on a rappel rope. In Europe, it's called a French Prusik knot. (In this case, your ridgeline. Testing without an autoblock was done from 6', testing with an autoblock was done from 25'. For more Oct 26, 2017 · If you stop, the knot tightens and cinches onto the rappel rope. Apr 4, 2017 · When tying my autoblock knot my cord keeps twisting, and it does not end up looking nearly this nice: I use a double-fisherman loop of cord that stays permanently tied, and it lays flat. Rappel Back Up 2. Farrimond Friction Hitch vs. Ascending a Rope 3. May 1, 2020 · French Prusik (aka The Autoblock) This knot is tied by wrapping the cord around the rope and clipping the bight at both ends of the cord together with a carabiner. The word “prusik” can be a verb as well as a noun. I used a Sterling Hollow Block wrapped into a french prusik below the descender to a carabiner on my leg loop. (If you know this knot, you probably know it's used in rappelling as a . Nylon Accessory Cord: Various lengths and diameters Like others have said the autoblock/prusik should go below the rappel device to act as a third “hand” and not actually take all the weight, your rappel device still does the majority of the heavy lifting. French Prusik Knot: The French Prusik Knot is similar to the Classic Prusik Knot, but it is tied with a loop of cord instead of two separate loops. What would be the best diameter, 6mm or 7mm? I know it has to be skinnier than the rope your are wrapping it around, but by how much? Also do you prefer creating your own prusik with or buying one of those sewn ones? Como tal, puede crear un sistema de bloqueo automático con el nudo de bloqueo automático, un klemheist (French Prusik), o una entrada valdôtain. . We discuss the ease of unloading each hitch when it’s loaded, and the advantages and Oct 7, 2019 · Klemheist should work fine, but the reason a prusik is used more often is because it’s omnidirectional, Autoblock is also omnidirectional, whereas the Klemheist is more unidirectional. The knot is tied on the rope below the rappel device and then attached to the climber’s harness through a carabiner on a leg loop or the belay loop. Aug 11, 2017 · A prusik hitch is an invaluable tool when rock climbing, traveling across glaciers, climbing ropes, etc. Machard utilisait le nœud trueOne less wrap or a different diameter of prusik ( ~70% rope diameter usually). However, there are a range of options when it comes to prusik material and of course each has its strengths and weaknesses. The 6. There are numerous variations on the prusik such as the "autoblock", but follow these steps to May 15, 2025 · The Autoblock knot, also called French Prusik knot, is a friction hitch used as a backup when rappelling. I also posted this in r/Climbing. It grips under load and releases even when loaded. Friction Knots The Prusik Knot The good old prusik knot is very, very useful. This makes it work only in one direction but with a better performance. Important: Because this 60 cm sling is your only connection to the rope, tie a backup bight knot (an overhand on a bight is fine) every 5 meters or so and clip it onto your belay loop with a locking carabiner, creating a Sep 17, 2020 · I do not use mine (VT Prusik) for anything but an autoblock while rappelling. A Purcell Prusik is a related cord popular among cavers and rope-rescue people. This type of 4 wrap prusik is the basis of most other hitch knots including the klemheist knot, distel hitch, and the scwabisch prusik. I use a French prusik because it does not get overly tight. It slides when unweighted but locks under load, making it a reliable knot. ) A klemheist is intended to be loaded in parallel with the main line, will grip when loaded, and can slide when unloaded. Nov 17, 2015 · The Distel Hitch and Prussik both appear to be slide and grip knots, used for ascending a climbing rope. (The other two are the prusik and the autoblock, aka French prusik, or Machard. Or it may be referred to as a “third hand Apr 2, 2025 · 5,256 likes, 47 comments - davejsearle on April 2, 2025: "3 Ways to tie a friction hitch: Autoblock, Schwabisch, and Standard Prusik. An autoblock has the potential risk of jamming your rappel device, which is why you would want to use a prusik above the device. How to tie the autoblock (also called the French prusik), prusik hitch, and klemheist hitch (also called the French Machard). Jul 20, 2024 · The Klemheist is one of three friction hitches every climber ought to know. Feb 22, 2020 · Using oplux 8mm, Sterling Hollow Block autoblock (French prusik) below the ATC and every combination of seven different tube style belay/rappel devices and six different carabiners. This setup allows you to release the knot while it’s still loaded. #knot #knots #ropeaccess #irata Watch on Autoblock Hitch, a/k/a French Prusik The autoblock hitch is a friction hitch that is used very commonly for the specific task of backing up a belay/rappel device. Mar 27, 2022 · This is going to be a bit grabby; you may find an autoblock / French prusik can hold your weight and be easier to slide. French Prusik | Autoblock The French Prusik is a type of prusik knot used primarily as a backup for abseiling or as a clutch in hauling systems. Assisting or Hauling a Climber Different Types of Friction Hitches The Autoblock (aka Machard) The Klemheist Final Download this stock image: Forming an Autoblock knot (also called Machard or French Prusik) with a 5mm accessory cord around a 9. There is a wide variety of them that can be deployed in various situations, each with their own functionalities, advantages and… The Prusik knot and Klemheist knot for a rappel backup are both great choices, but there are some key differences to consider. Autoblock: Same as klemheist, except bottom tail not threaded through top tail. The benefit of this Prusik is that it can be released under load. In this video we show how to tie a French prusik. 8mm climbing rope. Ive seen some guys using a hitch above the rappel device which im going to try with my ATC. Aug 23, 2023 · Autoblock (French) Prusik: In this variation of the Prusik Knot, the bight is wrapped around the static rope from bottom to top, like the Klemheist Knot. I did not test a standard prusik hitch as I wasn't sure you should use that hitch as an autoblock. Or did I see that incorrectly? Thanks! Sent from up in a tree He’s using a regular Prusik. Learn about their features, pros and cons, and the best situations to use each one. You can also use auto-block knots for fixed-line ascents and emergency operations, tying the cord around the rope and securing it to your harness with a carabiner To tie these knots you can use 6 or 7 mm Nov 11, 2023 · In this illustarted guide, we teach you how to tie a Klemheist Knot, tell you what situations it's good for, and compare it with other friction hitches. ^ Escalada de rocas. What are the pros and cons of each? Why/when would I choose one over the other? The Autoblock Knot (French Prusik Knot, or Machard Tresse Knot) employs a carabiner to join the two ends of the loop. The rule of thumb is to use an autoblock when the risk of falling is greater than the risk of drowning. Feb 21, 2024 · It also requires a carabiner. The French Prusik is also known as a Kleimheist or Machard, and is tied with a slight variation. Klemheist/french prussik: same, except each loop below the previous one, with last (bottom) tail threaded through first (top) tail and clipped to load. French Prusik (Autoblock) Hitch: A very commonly used slide-and-grip knot that needs a Prusik’s Loop but no carabiner. most are using a french prusik below the rappel device connected to your lineman loop. All you need is a loop of cord which you can make using 6 or 7mm accessory cord and a knot. It tends to slip while ascending, but is used as a backup when abseiling. ". Instead both tails clipped to load. May 25, 2022 · The Prusik and French Machard are two types of auto-block knots that grip the rope when strong tension is applied: this allows you to safely rappel down on double ropes, preventing rope burns. You can also play around with your device and prusik position, extending the belay device on a sling for example. When rappelling and using an autoblock consisting of a french prusik knot it seems there may be some options on how and where to attach the autoblock to my harness. The French prusik, or autoblock, is another in the family of slide-and-grip knots that includes the standard Prusik knot and the Klemheist. Lets talk about three different ways to tie a prusik hitch around a rope: the French prusik (or Machard or autoblock), the Schwabisch hitch, and the standard prusik knot. This will leave you with what we refer to as a 4-wrap prusik. Step-By-Step Guide: How to Tie the Bachmann Hitch Knot A step-by-step guide on how to tie a Bachmann Hitch Knot. Another thing to bear in mind (this was covered in a thread here last year on the topic): some brands of accessory cord are harder and more slippery than others. Jul 10, 2025 · The Prusik Knot (ABoK #1763) is a friction hitch used for climbing and rappelling. When it sets, you don't try to open up the prusik. Similarly, the term “autoblock” has come to mean a friction hitch tied below the rappel device that can stop the descent. The autoblock knot is an essential climbing safety knot—one that every climber should know how to tie and use. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Autoblock ( french) prusik An autoblock is a rope device used in climbing and caving for both rappelling and ascending. Then we added some tips for how to remember to double-check everything and stay safe rappelling. A somewhat longer loop than the normal Prusik is used around the rope, then a second Prusik is used around the cord loop itself to form a foot loop. Use up most of the cord during your wraps to create friction. Klemheist bites best in one direction and gets undressed in the other direction, so it could make on-the-fly bridge adjustments a bit messy in one direction. We discuss the ease of unloading each hitch when it’s loaded, and the advantages and A friction hitch is a kind of knot used to attach one rope to another in a way that is easily adjusted. With one or two prusiks you can , or rig a up an injured climber, or . 4. You mule off the belay device, release the prusik, then release the mule. Feb 2, 2019 · Placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way to backup your rappel. It provides more than enough friction to run a hollowblock below and stop completely (hollowblock tied as an autoblock in the French Prusik configuration). Create a loop by tying both ends of a cord together with a double fisherman’s knot. What we shall loosely term Prusik knots have numerous uses - here are a few : Autoblock Knot AKA French Prusik Prusik Knot Klemheist Knot Bachmann Knot This post will describe each of these 4 types of friction knots and the fireman’s belay, as well as discuss the pros and cons of each. I have heard of people using Prussik many times more often than Distel Hitch. With one or two prusiks you can ascend a rope, or rig a z-pulley to haul up an injured climber, or backup an abseil (“abseil” is aka “rappel”). These knots are commonly used in climbing as part of single-rope technique, doubled-rope technique and as "ratchets" to capture progress on a moving rope, most typically in a mechanical advantage system such as a Z-drag. These variations (The French Prusik/Autoblock and the Kleimheist) are less prone to jamming than the original Prusik. MMG will demonstrate how to tie a Prusik, Klemheist and Autoblock. We discuss the ease of unloading each hitch when it’s loaded A standard prusik performs best when it's loaded perpendicular to the main line. But, there’s three reasons why this is not the preferred method. The main difference between the French prusik and the other ones is that the French prusik can be moved while weighted. Actually two variations on the original Prusik Knot as designed by Dr Prusik. As such, you can create an autoblock system with the autoblock knot, a Klemheist (French Prusik), or a Valdotain Tresse. Which is a b Knots, hitches and prusiks are foundational to mountaineering skills. 732 likes, 17 comments - rise_and_summit on June 16, 2025: "French Prusik | Autoblock The French Prusik is a type of prusik knot used primarily as a backup for abseiling or as a clutch in hauling systems. i havent seen anyone do that personally with the madrock digunakan sebagai jerat untuk backup pada descendingused for back up descent on manual descenders#knot #climbing #verticalrescueindonesia #tendon #tendonindo An illustration of a friction hitch called a French prusik or autoblock. We discuss the ease of unloading each hitch when it’s loaded, and the advantages and I suspect you immediately think "Prusik". Often it is referred to as a “French Prusik,” which can also be used to describe an entirely different hitch. Quick Tying Guide: Autoblock Knot To tie an autoblock knot, wrap the hitch cord around the rappel ropes four to five times. AMGA Instructor Team Member Patrick Ormond explains how to tie the auto-block, prusik and Klemheist friction hitches. This knot is also called an English prusik and a French prusik. The term "autoblock" is kind of ambiguous as it refers to both the knot and the system. You can experiment with all the variables (diameter, number of wraps, knot type - try a Klemheist - and even prusik material) for your rope. [7][8] Dec 17, 2015 · Both effectively do the same job, grip a rope as an auto bloc or an ascender. A a third hand in climbing rope work and as a abseil backup. When rappelling, why would you put a prusik/autoblock below the rappel device instead of above it? On a canyoneering trip this weekend with a buddy who is a proficient climber, he insisted the best way to use an autoblock is below the rappel device on the brake strand, with the autoblock clipped to a leg loop. Sep 20, 2022 · I use an autoblock for my figure 8 and will on my ATC thats coming in todayshould work the same way. This is most often used as a rappel backup, tied below the belay device or above extended with a sling. It uses a carabiner to join the two ends of the loop. Jan 9, 2025 · 3 1 alex_th 09 Jan 2025 In reply to Iloverealrock: I find that 140 cm of 5 mm or 150 cm of 6 mm makes a good length of prusik sling for tying a French prusik knot (auto-block knot). Suffice it to say it's worth learning this gem of a knot. ) This was really good information for me so I thought I'd share. Jun 16, 2025 · 154 likes, 6 comments - rise_and_summit on June 16, 2025: "French Prusik | Autoblock The French Prusik is a type of prusik knot used primarily as a backup for abseiling or as a clutch in hauling systems. The knots used can be either the standard Prusik where the cord is wound round the rope several times before one end is poked through the other and clipped to a karabiner, or the French Prusik where both ends are clipped to the karabiner. Alpine Butterfly vs. This can be valuable in a rescue if it is necessary to release the knot while still loaded. I think I might take the trouble to use rappel even when I have bolts or steps to take down. – Since the autoblock cord is under friction regularly check it for wear and tear. The Prusik Knot The good old prusik knot is very, very useful. Oct 14, 2021 · I found this video while trying to figure out what type of rope I should use for my prusik/autoblock knot. I review three of the more common options below in a long winded rant but threw in a few photos to keep you going. Use an Autoblock When Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The rule supposedly is that you want a friction hitch to be 3mm smaller than the diameter of rope you are trying to grab and to use 3 wraps. Aug 17, 2019 · Meaning, a person could use a prusik or french prusik hitch for their autoblock? If that is the case in my testing the Hollowblock did not grab the Oplux at all using a french prusik no matter how many or few wraps I used. Prusik Knot Pros: Creates a secure, load-bearing loop in the middle of a rope. 3. The term autoblock is also used for a specific type of friction hitch, [5][2][6] which is also known as a French prusik or Machard knot, named after its inventor, Serge Machard. Prusik Knot Pros: Excellent for adjustable tensioning, particularly on taut lines. Wrap the loop around the rope 3–5 times. These hitches are a simple and cheap alternative to mechanical ascenders. Feb 3, 2017 · Similar knots are the Autoblock aka French Prusik and the Klemheist Inevitably there is some debate about their relative merits but both are defintely a bit easier to tie than the prusik. ) Friction hitches are used typically used as a rope grab in a mechanical advantage haul system, and as a tool for emergency rope ascending. Nov 11, 2016 · I just got in from testing a Sterling ATS descender. I will try to remember to take a picture later of how short it ends up. Cons: Less reliable for heavy loads or climbing compared to the Prusik Knot. The hitch is normally constructed by wrapping the sling in a spiral around the rappel line on the brake side of the device and clipping the ends to a harness leg loop or Apr 14, 2023 · What is a Prusik Knot? Origin of the Prusik Advantages of Prusik Hitches Disadvantages of Prusik Hitches How a Prusik Knot Works How to Tie a Prusik Knot Making Your Own Prusik with Cord Pre-Sewn Prusik Loops Three Uses For Prusik Knots 1. The benefit of this Prusik is that it can be Show/Hide Table of Contents « Previous Next » Autoblock (French Prusik) Description The autoblock is used when rappelling. Apr 29, 2023 · The prusik knot and autoblock block are also commonly applied to haul injured or stuck climbers in rescue scenarios. There are Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The autoblock is a particularly popular rappel backup because it is very quick to set up. Webbing does not work well with a prusik, so if you’d like to use webbing, you should use either the autoblock or the kleimheist instead. Looking to buy some cord for a prusik. Jun 21, 2024 · The Autoblock knot is also known as the French Prusik knot. I will probably play with an actual VT prusik above my belay device, but I’m comfortable as is, so I’m not doing that soon. Learn which hitch to use in specific climbing systems, including how Things to note:- It can be coiled upwards or downwards- Clip the carabiner to the whole of the leg loop The term "autoblock" is kind of ambiguous as it refers to both the knot and the system. Advantages The autoblock makes you less Feb 22, 2020 · One final note on the prusik: We only recommend using cord - not - webbing when making this friction hitch. It’s complicated, reliable, and slides easier than other slide-and-grip knots. Prusik Types: The Autoblock (French) Advantages - Easy to tie and untie - Can be released under load Disadvantages - Tends to slip when used to ascend ropes Best Uses - As a back-up when abseiling Feb 15, 2023 · Discover the difference between Autoblock and Prusik knots for climbing. 3 or 4 wraps with a French prusik using 6 or 7 mm cord Our bestselling friction hitch and autoblock has been redesigned with a stronger aramid fiber. The loop is wrapped around the climbing rope and tied with a locking knot. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Bachmann Knot How does the Autoblock Knot compare to the Prusik Knot? The Autoblock is easier to release, while the Prusik grips stronger on static ropes. The prusik loop or prusik rappel backup is a standard, yet you might May 15, 2025 · Other Slide and Grip Knots Autoblock Knot The Autoblock Knot (also known as the French Prusik Knot) is tied like the Klemheist knot. Cependant, après sa mort tragique dans un accident d'escalade en 1963, le club alpin local a baptisé le nouvel attelage à friction "nœud de Machard", ou "nœud de prusik" français. Im using a standard prusik connected same way. We did a bunch Another variation is the autoblock or French Prusik, used by some people as a backup knot while rappelling. Clip both ends into a locking carabiner. While I might use a "prusik cord" to tie a friction knot, the knot specifically called a "Prusik" would likely be my last choice to ascend a rope. Dec 5, 2019 · Is that a good thing? And in Jamie's video, it looks like he's using a sewn loop standard prusik with two wraps rather than a French prusik autoblock. This video is part of Midwest Mountain Guides rock climbing informational series. Dis Jun 6, 2016 · In reply to MttSnr: French Prusik / Autoblock, same thing. Its advantage and disadvantage is the same thing, it can be easily released, even under pressure. They release under load, the others don't. Key Benefits • 100% Technora Construction 1,239 likes, 14 comments - davejsearle on April 2, 2025: "3 Ways to Tie a Prusik Hitch: Autoblock, Schwabisch, and Standard Prusik. All you need is a loop of cord which you can make using 6 or 7mm accessory cord and a double fisherman's knot. Then, use a locking carabiner from your harness leg loop, clip both ends, and lock the carabiner. Jun 27, 2019 · AMGA Certified Rock guide Elaina Arenz shares how to tie and when to use Autoblock, Kelmhiest, and Prusik friction hitches. Jun 17, 2009 · Seems you have tied an autoblock knot. Apr 25, 2020 · Figure eight on a bight with double overhand below for anyone wondering what that looked like. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shows the prussik, kleimheist, and auto block hitches and the differences in how they grab and release. À l'époque, Machard appelait sa nouvelle invention le "nœud spiralé". olrk lcv bwhy cjew xurd owk ezaep onqjeg ftkchind frpgmop