Belaying off the anchor. The idea is that a lead fall simply doesn't .

Belaying off the anchor. There is often a lot of debate on exactly how to belay—with this article, the debate will be answered once and for all. Are there situations when other options can be useful? “Yeah, but they’re few and far between,” says Whewell. These devices generally work great. When belaying off the anchor station (Fig. Unless I’m bringing up multiple climbers, in a winter alpine setting, or have a really really narrow rope I almost exclusively use the grigri when belaying off the anchor. ” Mar 16, 2022 · Belaying may be the most critical skill you need to participate in the sport of rock climbing safely. In short, belaying off the anchor is a valid method if your anchor is bomber, there is a risk or large/F2 falls, or there if a risk of getting pulled into a roof from a fall. Find an experienced climber, a mentor, or hire a guide, to show you how to set up the anchor and belay from above. You will probably be belaying off of your belay loop (not directly off the anchor), with the rope to your follower redirected through the first bolt on pitch 2. , a nut or cam) into a crack below their body, or tie themselves by the belay loop to a rock or tree. Oct 15, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The config is: Myself - 3 safety points of connection to the rock, two webbing on my Belay loop and the rope through the legging and tie in loop, Belaying off the anchor - Two webbing one to each anchor loop. It is easier if you are belaying off a top rope or belaying from above. Dec 15, 2021 · Belaying from above is also common when trad climbing on routes with natural anchors, even on single-pitch climbs. Mostly used in multi-pitch climbing and also great for having a summit experience with your Bomber bolted anchor: belay off the anchor. In a snow setting, an indirect belay allows one to absorb some of the force so that it's not directly transmuted to the anchor. In this thread it was suggested that belaying the second off the anchor was bad practice. The end of the rope which passes through the top-rope anchor and goes back down to the climber is called the "live" end of the rope. How To Belay With An ATC This article will cover top rope belaying. Not to mention paying out slack would be incredibly jerky and annoying for the leader. The end result is a system which can be released under load and can be used again as a belay. The idea is that a lead fall simply doesn't Feb 18, 2025 · Do you belay off the anchor? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Although this is common practice in many part of the world, and indeed taught in many online instructional materials, it is not best practice. Essentially a fixed-point belay is a lead belay directly off the anchor, as opposed to the more standard belay technique of operating a device off one's harness. Directly belaying off the anchor is a great technique when providing a belay from the top. [5] To set up this anchor the belayer should place a piece of directional protection (i. Belaying off the anchor/your master point = fine. Use of an indirect belay for the leader reduces the force on the anchors, but does require consideration of how the belayer may be pulled in a fall. The German Alpine Club (Deutscher Alpenverein, or DAV) is one of the leading proponents of this technique. Jul 5, 2016 · What is the difference between belaying from the top off your harness and belaying off a fixed anchor point next to your anchor point? Nothing (except that it is easier to escape the system in the latter case, and the load will not go onto you). The anchor arrests any upward force produced during a fall thus preventing the belayer from "taking off". Doing it that way also eliminates the issue of direction of pull for a factor two Sport Climbing Anchors. Belaying off the anchor has been standard practice for professional guides for many years, and is catching on with recreational climbers as well. Now that you have a solid anchor, connect yourself to the main locking carbiner of your anchor via a clove hitch on your rope, or your personal anchor system. This is the recommended method by many climbing schools today. A more 'traditional' belay off of your tie-knot is much more flexible (despite the inconvenience of you being 'in the system'). May 30, 2011 · Also, since you’re belaying directly off the anchor, obviously the anchor must be bomber. A fixed point lead belay (FPLB) is often the go-to belay method for many climbers when multi pitch climbing in most situations. A triloaded biner is a lot weaker but still strong enough to enough even the worst of trad falls. Mar 23, 2014 · Or hire a guide for a day to teach you anchor-building and belaying from above. This comprehensive guide provides a step-by-step process to ensure safe and effective rope management, allowing climbers to support their partners while minimizing risks. I typically pair it with either a spirit locker or in certain settings a Petzl Freino with an integrated spur to redirect the brake strand. There is no need to escape the belay or attach the upper prusik Disadvantages - Adds more friction to the system Step 1 Attach a prusik to the rope as previously described. Many guides are beginning to employ these techniques on ice climbs and on sketchy alpine climbs. But it is still important to know the risks. Besides, this anchor comes in handy when you have to belay under less-than-ideal conditions or where there’s an obstacle between the wall and Method #1: Belaying From Above Using A Direct Belay In the direct belay method, the belay device is secured directly on the belay anchor. Mostly used in multi-pitch climbing and also great for having a summit experience with your partner on a single pitch climb. Three of the most common belaying methods are described below. In some sketchy situations (like alpine mixed climbs, to be redundant), your stance might be part of the anchor, in which case you’re belaying off your waist. Belaying off the anchor makes it easier to escape the belay and is "auto blocking" but lowering the second is more involved (needs to be backed up as guide mode is sort of on off). While bringing up your second, it is almost always best to create a mastpoint on anchor and belay off that. If you are not completely certain that your anchor is suitable for this type of belaying, you should use another method instead. When giving a top-rope belay to a climber directly off the anchor, the belayer has already accomplished step 2 in the basic process-he or she has already transferred the load to the anchor. g. and learn how to belay directly off of the anchor using a GriGri or other auto-assistive style device. Dec 16, 2017 · Belaying Multi-pitch It's often recommended to belay off the harness (an "indirect" belay) when belaying the leader, and off the anchor (a "direct" belay) when belaying the follower. Jul 23, 2015 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. That's the number one easiest way for a softer catch since it spreads out the fall through a larger span of time. Jun 19, 2023 · Discover the basic principles of belaying, and how they can be applied to top-rope belaying and to skilled lead belaying—including catching lead falls. If you can hold their weight on your waist you may not even weight the anchor at all. In top rope belaying, the climber is attached to a rope that runs through an anchor at the top of the route. Even on single-pitch trad climbs, there’s a good chance that if you can walk off the top, then that’s what you’ll need to do. This makes belaying a second very easy, and if Jan 3, 2014 · Mike, Practicing belaying the second from above is a good idea, but trying to figure how to do it over the Internet is a bad idea. The primary reasons to use this: Allows a greater chance of actually holding a factor 2 fall. Finally, secure your belay device to this using a locking carabiner. Even if you are not belaying a lead climber, it is good to follow the tips here as long as the climber is heavier than you. The manufacturers of assisted-braking belay devices recommend against belaying directly from the anchor due to the chance of the handle pressing on the rock in a fall. A-B-C Positioning When a climber is significantly heavier than the belayer, the belayer may be lifted off the ground should the climber fall. fewer unnecessary equipment pieces (probably not relevant as I take a PAS just in case anyway and I see most people with one on them even when using the clove hitch) As for belaying the follower off the anchor, I could be wrong but don't you create a pulley effect by redirecting through your anchor from your harness? Sure you add some dynamic element to the anchor but the added force multiplier more than negates that. Jun 23, 2024 · Top Rope Belaying Top rope belaying is a common technique used in traditional climbing, especially for beginners. (According to the image, this may be known in Germany as a “plus clip”; Can any European climbers verify this?) Practices for Belaying a Second: off the harness or off the anchor? (WARNING AND DISCLAIMER: Complete knowledge of standard climbing equipment, techniques and practices is assumed. MegaJul, belaying off the anchor with a skinny single rope Rob Busack 3. There's a lot to it and a lot to go wrong if you Mar 29, 2004 · If you are belaying a second and the anchor is less then ideal, belaying off the harness might be better. “From a modern rock climbing perspective, 99% of the time I want to belay directly off the anchor. Also some newer thought here thanks to Kirk Mauthner at Basecamp Innovations. There's a lot to it and a lot to go wrong if you Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jun 30, 2023 · Belaying from an anchor is a complex and advanced technique, usually only practiced on multi-pitch climbs or routes where you plan to walk off the top of the climb (like a sea cliff). May 24, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. While not ideal, triloading like this isn't terrible. Sep 3, 2013 · Anchor Clipping Date: 3rd September 2013 Anchor Clipping, Direct Anchor Belays (edited Sept 4). This is normally not used when lead belaying. This kind of surprised me so instead of hijacking that thread I started this one. Pulling rope through it is far easier even than the GiGi, and it dramatically simplifies many improvised rescue/assistance techniques. Mar 15, 2025 · In other situations, belaying directly from the anchor is nice as it keeps you 'out of the system', but in this situation it can cause a lot of rope drag. Usually belaying off harness is for special situations only, like belaying in a snow seat. It’s been my experience that ‘biners specifically designed to prevent cross loading provide, at the very least, peace of mind. May 24, 2019 · Now build your anchor and bring your partner up. May 5, 2025 · Belaying a follower or two directly off the anchor is a convenient way to ensure a reliable catch and a comfortable belay during multi-pitch climbing. 13, has done Salathe, Lurking Fear, and the Nose) and his shit fell out of his ass when he heard I've been doing this. and should I be creating a master point to take strain off anchor loops? I've hear yes Jul 29, 2019 · While belaying directly off the anchor shouldn’t seem tiring I’ve known many guides who developed elbow tendinitis from the repetition of pulling two ropes through plaquettes up thousands of feet of moderate climbing over a decade or so of guiding. There's a lot to it and a lot to go wrong if you Feb 1, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Triloading a biner = not fine at all. Dec 6, 2018 · More complicated to remember, and harder to transition to while belaying, the brake-strand redirect nonetheless provides a smooth and secure lower directly off the anchor using the belay device we probably all have on us. This video covers three of the most common methods for belaying a Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. In climbing, a belayer holds a lead climber’s rope and feeds it out as the leader advances upward. This is the setup you will see in indoor climbing gyms. This is a requested video to talk about the pros and cons of belaying directly off of your anchor. Oct 5, 2022 · This is part three of three videos where I take a deep dive into the very advanced skill of directly belaying your lead climber off of the anchor. Sep 21, 2022 · This is part one of three videos where I take a deep dive into the very advanced skill of directly belaying your lead climber off of the anchor. Do you mean belay off your harness as normal belay? There's pros and cons to belaying a second off your harness vs belaying off the ancho/ guide mode. Belaying, a. The Wrong Way - Direct off the anchor When belaying a second, although possible, it is not advisable to belay direct off the anchor. Mar 15, 2016 · Belaying and Lowering Once the belay system has been setup, the system has been double checked, and the climber and the belayer have communicated their roles clearly and unambiguously, the actual belaying, climbing, and eventually lowering is the next phase of the belay system. Historically, I have enjoyed the use of my Petzl Reverso in guide mode belaying directly off the anchor's master. Any safe version of the belay escape involves the same four checkpoints: - Get hands-free - Transfer climber’s weight to anchor - Transfer climber’s belay to anchor - Remove all excess prusiks, carabiners and knots The belayer can detach from the rope completely if needed. k. Belay off my harness but redirect the climber's rope back off the anchor. Advantages - Quick to set up. Not sure how other devices would behave. Normal practice would be to have the device on the power point of the anchor though, not on the belayer's tie in. Of course the tests will give lower forces when belaying off the anchor if you let more slack slide through. Most of the devices we have tested offer some way to do so, and we have noted this in the specs table in the chart at the top of this article. Belaying outdoors involves making decisions about the anchor, the position of the belayer, and the belay technique. Save this cheatsheet to Pinterest! Sep 7, 2013 · Belaying off the harness tight against the anchor (tied in with the rope) oriented in the direction of fall just seems like it would reduce some of the load. This technique is very commonly used in multi-pitch cli Jul 10, 2025 · Belaying itself is relatively simple provided one is always paying attention to your climbing partner. A poor traditional anchor made out of necessity: belaying off your belay loop allows you to use your body to try to reduce the forces that make it to an anchor. I've been to other gyms that belay with ground anchors but with Aug 28, 2021 · Off the harness Through a redirect Off the anchor itself Belaying off the anchor is almost always the best option. Every climber will start off with learning top rope belaying. Provided your rope is long enough, you can belay from the bottom. Belaying a heavier lead climber is the toughest. Belaying directly off the anchor is usually a preferred technique if your anchor is super strong, as in two bolts, but people typically do it with fancy belay devices like the ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso. ) Sep 19, 2018 · The most common reason is to belay your second directly off the anchor. Jan 13, 2014 · This technique is designed for belaying a following climber from the top of a pitch, and although belaying directly off the anchor with an auto-blocking belay device is convenient, there are times when it is preferable to belay directly off the harness. 36K subscribers 595 I was having some trouble with my editing software which caused the last few minuets of the video to be cut off, so I re- edited the video and now I have the Oct 18, 2021 · If the belayer is lifted during a lead fall, then the anchor needs to protect against an upward pul -belaying off the harness doesn’t alleviate the need to protect against an upward pull. If the climber is heavier than you, you could secure a knot to a ground anchor. Lock the system by securing a stopper knot in the rope’s end; this way, this end of your rope will not completely pass through the belaying gadget, letting you fall off. Seek professional, expert instruction before using these techniques. It is appropriate in many situations and has several distinct advantages: Belaying direct off the anchor with a munter hitch is standard practice among old school alpinists, nothing wrong with it in principle. e. It’s just not a good thing–don’t fall off In general, two ways of belaying are possible: belaying with the belay device attached to the anchor station or to the harness. “To belay” is a term with nautical origins that involves securing a rope around another object, for example, a cleat, to stop it from moving. Once you’ve climbed a pitch and built an anchor, you will need to belay your partner up. Alternately, clove myself to the anchor, tie a "direct isolation loop" in the climber's side and belay off that. His is attached to a snow picket, but a snow picket isn't that strong. Returning to belay mode Aug 16, 2021 · Check out this ultimate guide to get you started in the right direction! This guide is the outcome of countless hours spent hanging and belaying off multi-pitch anchors, wishful thinking about the solidity of gear placements, and regret about the discomforts of belaying off that tiny pinnacle which looked so cool in the guidebook photo. It probably helps reduce the forces at play if belaying the leader off your loop, but unsure it has any benefits if belaying off the anchor). In the event of a fall, expected or unexpected Best applications: – Multi-pitch rock climbing – Belaying directly off the shelf from top – Clipping climbing partners, backpacks, extra gear on a multi-pitch. Learn the essential techniques and steps for belaying in rock climbing. These fundamental principals run from the most basic belay to the most advance. Build an anchor that extends just over the edge. . Directly belaying off the anchor is a great technique when providing a belay from the top. a Slack Management Throughout the climb, the belayer’s goal should be to give the climber enough rope for efficient movement and clipping, and, when catching falls, reducing the climber’s risk of impacting the ground, wall features, or other people. ATC Guide Or Reverso) Tie the end of the rope onto your Nov 18, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Mar 14, 2025 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Apr 28, 2025 · Belaying a climber on toprope—where the rope runs from the belay device up through an anchor at the top of the climb and back down to the climber’s harness—is as straightforward as it gets. However, lets say the seconds fall and pulls you off also, now you are both hanging off the sketchy anchor, instead of just them. Mar 31, 2020 · Belaying From the Top of a Climb - Off the Anchor - Munter, GriGri, and Auto Blocking Device - with a look at pros and cons and considerations and failure me This video covers how to set up and belay a climber from an anchor above them (multi pitch belaying). AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) instructor Margaret Wheeler explains how to belay directly off the anchor for safety and efficiency. For lowering a worker or victim who does not need tending, a single team member can control the descent using a descender on a high anchor, with an ASAP installed as a backup belay. Climbers spend half of their time belaying—make sure you know all of the nuanced tips on how to belay in every situation. The appropriate amount of Mar 29, 2013 · This also makes the AL with Talon easier to thread on the lightweight Sterling Chain Reactor or heavier Metolius PAS 22 when belaying off the anchor while above the climber. The bottom line is this: I’ve played with factor-two falls onto anchors a couple of times with the top piece clipped and not, as have some of my friends and colleagues. Step 2 You are now ready to haul. You can easily set up a 3:1 system if you are belaying directly from the anchor in guide mode. A mobile anchor should be positioned slightly behind the belayer, on the same side as the brake hand. The belayer manages the rope, providing tension and support as the climber ascends the route. Pull up all the slack rope in the system until it's tight on your partner, then choose a method to belay them. Jan 8, 2019 · Its best use is as a compact belay locker while trad climbing, and we loved it for use with a Petzl Reverso, either while lead belaying or while belaying off the anchor in auto-lock mode. Feb 8, 2024 · Belaying the LEADER directly from the anchor is known as a “fixed point” belay. 1. The belayer will attach themselves to the anchor using the rope or runner. Precautions: - Do a function test on the ASAP to verify that it is installed in the correct direction - The rope must pass through a redirect point on the anchor so that the ASAP stays in the correct position Reply reply pharmaway123 •• Edited Right - so outside of a roof, traverse, or huge run out w/ a not-so-solid anchor, IE situations where the belayer might get hurt if they're pulled OR a 1-2kN difference in force on the anchor may rip it, belaying off the harness is a totally reasonable first choice (ie in most situations) Reply reply Join StoneMan Climbing Co. I don't see why doing it with a grigri would be any problem. In top rope belaying, the climbing rope runs from the belayer’s belay device to the anchor point at the top of the climb and back down to the climber’s harness. thanks This is part two of three videos where I take a deep dive into the very advanced skill of directly belaying your lead climber off of the anchor. This is not a "one size fits all" approach, but there are definitely situations where this approach may actually be better. Feb 21, 2020 · The Lifeguard provided more resistance in auto-block mode (when belaying off the anchor) than the GriGri, but not as much as the auto-blocking tube-style devices. Many trad climbing areas are established with a leave-no-trace ethic, meaning no pre-installed anchor points at the top of climbs. In this instance, a ground anchor should be considered. Being able to safely set up belays in a wide range of outdoor situations requires an understanding of the system options, the technical proficiency to set up correctly the chosen system, and the maturity to know your limits. A Beginners guide to basic belays for rock climbing. But to answer your question, you can still belay from the bottom, even if the anchor bolts are away from the edge on top. Step By Step Guide Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device (E. Belaying off the anchor like this totally removes any possibility of a dynmic belay. Then, create another clove-hitch at a distance from the anchor that with make it easy to belay off. Nov 26, 2013 · If belaying 1 second, I prefer a GriGri 2 directly off the anchor. Jan 20, 2023 · In the above photo, AAI Guide Tad McCrea is belaying directly off his harness on a steep slope. May 19, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The belay stance must replace the security that an anchor might have provided, whether by bracing one’s feet, belaying over the top of a ridgeline, or another method. Dec 5, 2019 · New data is starting to suggest that load tests actually show LOWER impact forces on both the climber and gear when belaying directly off of the anchor, and that the belayer is much less likely to lose control of the belay. The belayer is not attached directly to the belay device. Immediately start preparing your anchor for a belay. And the most important of all, Every time the leader would fall or hangdog, the anchor would get clusterfucked. Dec 5, 2011 · In reply to mike1979: Lead belaying directly off an anchor is clearly mad unless the anchor is absolutely bomb proof in an upwards direction. May 23, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 1), the belay device is attached to the anchor; the drag of a fall directly acts upon the anchor and not upon the body of the belay-er. This skill is used for multi-pitch climbing with a multi-directional anchor. It is completely unnecessary though and would be safer to do something different. I think my 2 safety webbing point carabiners should have been facing outward away from each other. Aug 24, 2016 · I recently visited a new climbing gym and was instructed to belay directly off a ground anchor without any attachment to my harness. Certainly, if it is impossible to build a solid rock anchor, a stance with a single piece could be Nov 15, 2021 · There has been a lot of talk in the industry lately about fixed-point belay techniques. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Use of a direct belay for the follower similarly minimizes the Apr 12, 2018 · Does anyone have experience lead belaying direct off the anchor using an assisted braking device such as an Alpine Smart or Megajul? Ive seen a Climbing Technology video demonstrating an Alpine UP being used in this manner. They will break. Jun 13, 2011 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. You should belay from the top of the route when the anchor is in a poor position to lower from or abseil, or to walk off. I went over this situation while doing some rescue drills with my trad sensei (he climbs 5. The following is NOT to be used or construed as instruction in how to climb or how to belay. We use the Black Diamond ATC Guide, an autoblocking device similar to the Petzl Reverso. You can tell your belayer to take you off belay. Preferably with an ATC in guide mode. sgpvj jwr flnivdn erzjc dabwogfq jyn bgpkjjao peuspg owdnic icyt